Tag Archives: Green Building

Fairbanks school district experiments with solar power

From The Fairbanks Daily News-Miner, Sunday, June 27, 2010:

Eighty narrow strips of solar cells in the pattern of a giant xylophone blinked in the bright Fairbanks sunshine this week. The first solar laminate wall in Alaska covers the south side of the school district’s facility building downtown.

Larry Morris pointed to a dip in a graph showing the solar array’s electricity generation over time.

“Here we had a little cloud come through at about 3 o’clock,” said Morris, projects manager for the school district.

Rather than typical solar panels that are mounted on rooftops, these thin films of silicon were applied directly to the wall panels.

“It’s literally like a sticker, a decal, with a backing on it,” said Fred Reardon, solar operations manager for Whirlwind Steel, which manufactures metal roof panels with solar laminates. “You have a thick bonding material like a black tar goop.”

The Fairbanks North Star Borough School District is experimenting with this system, called building-integrated photovoltaics, to test its energy efficiency and its potential for other buildings.

One Family’s Green Backyard Playhouse

From Mother Earth News:

For years, I dreamed of building my own home using natural materials. But time passed, and I started to think about what I could do with the house I actually owned and lived in. In the end, I carried a shovel and some hand tools into the backyard of my vinyl-sided split-level ranch, and started building a cob house — an elflike playhouse for my children.

What took shape was a small cottage built of stone, cob (clay and straw) and wood, much of it gathered on-site. It took far too long to build, and demanded an endless supply of sand and clay. But the process was pleasant and rewarding. The structure emerged organically, dictated as much by available materials as the shape of our small city lot. A grove of hemlocks at the edge of the property provided an idyllic setting; however, the steep pitch and rocky soil presented challenges for excavation. As difficult as this was, the digging yielded enough stone for a rubble trench and a mortared foundation. It also produced good clay that went into the walls, plus contributed the material for the attached wood-fired pizza oven.

Recycled timbers formed a post-and-beam frame covered with a steep gabled roof. Walls of 6-inchthick cob went up slowly, molding around salvaged windows. The cob was mixed on tarps, stomped and squished by the small bare feet of my two daughters and the neighborhood children. Poppy, my 3-year-old, was especially good at screening clumps of dried clay. Ella, at 8, drilled holes with a masonry bit in 100-year-old slate shingles.

Continue Reading: One Family’s Green Backyard Playhouse

Insulating your foundation with ease

ASK A BUILDER

By CCHRC Staff

The “Ask a Builder” series is dedicated to answering some of the many questions Fairbanks residents have about building, energy and the many other parts of home life.

Q: I have a concrete foundation. I heard insulating your foundation can save heat. How can I do that?

Concrete is very conductive, and heat always goes to cold, so a foundation without insulation is basically a bottomless heat sink. If the foundation is un-insulated, there are definitely opportunities to save some heat.

Current code requires an R-value of 15, which is about 3 inches of blue foam.

Ideally, digging out the outside of the foundation and insulating the outside will keep the foundation warmer but doing this type of work on the outside of a home is not always practical. In such a situation, put foam on the interior of the home’s outside walls and tape the joints.

On a similar point, the rim joist area is prone to air leakage where the joists meet the outside wall.

Often, fiberglass insulation is put into joist bays, but that is not enough to stop air leakage. A better choice is to install sheets of foam fitted to each joist bay, then spray foam around the edges.

Another option is to hire a spray foam contractor to spray between the joists.

These techniques will help stop air flow and heat loss through that part of the foundation.

Q: Is there a way to limit the amount of offgassing in my home or ventilate it in some way?

For those who do not know the term, offgassing, or outgassing, is the release of gas from materials over time. Often these materials are plastics or other petroleum-based substances that release chemicals that can be hazardous to health.

For starters, try to use “green” materials that do not offgas hazardous substances like formaldehyde and other volatile organic compounds (VOCs). Low VOC and non-VOC paints, carpets, caulks and glues are available. Furniture and fabrics also offgas, so look for healthy alternatives such as solid wood furniture and other non­VOC products. In new construction, despite the best attempts to use entirely healthy products, there will probably be some type of VOC. Before moving in to a new home, ventilate the home as much as possible. One method is to turn the thermostat up very high, to promote outgassing, and run the ventilation system at high speed for a day or two. This tactic will help “bake out” and vent VOCs.

In older homes, particleboard countertops, shelving and cabinets can be coated with a non-VOC sealant to prevent further outgassing.

Also, use greener cleaning products and store chemicals outside rather than indoors. Try to purchase only as much as needed so unused chemicals do not sit around.

The best way to get rid of offgassed substances is to regularly make sure the home is properly ventilated by opening windows and using mechanical ventilation.

A well-ventilated home will exchange air more frequently, exhaust pollutants and bring in fresh air.

Alaska HomeWise articles promote home awareness for the Cold Climate Housing Research Center (CCHRC). If you have a question, e-mail us at akhomewise@cchrc.org.You can also call the CCHRC at (907) 457-3454.

Replacing your windows, all panes at a time

ASK A BUILDER

By CCHRC Staff

The “Ask a Builder” series is dedicated to answering questions Fairbanks residents have about building, energy and the many other parts of home life.

Q: What is the relationship between boilers and combustion air?

Any appliance that expels air must have its own air supply or one appliance could be drawing air through another. When a boiler expels gas out its flue, an equal amount of make-up air must be brought in. Similarly, any appliance that sends air out of the house needs to be supplied with intake air. If an appliance is not supplied with intake air, it may pull the air it needs down through the boiler’s chimney, thus “backdrafting” the boiler and pushing combustion gasses into your home.

For example, in a “tight” home (one with sound insulation and well-sealed doors and windows), where a wood stove and a boiler both draw air, the boiler may get its air supply by backdrafting the wood stove. However, if you have provided adequate air supplies for both appliances, both should operate with no problems.

Q: If one of the panes in my double or triplepane window breaks, can I get the pane replaced, or do I need to replace the whole window?

When one of the panes in a double or triple pane window breaks, all of the glass layers must be removed and replaced.

Taking apart a window also involves removing several parts such as the “stop” which holds the glass in place, the jamb liner, and other components.

Typically the frame and any associated trim can remain untouched. Virtually all factory- built vinyl, fiberglass, and wood windows have provisions for removing the glass.

If the window can open, simply disconnect the opening portion from the frame and take it to a glass shop.

Repairing a “fixed” or “picture” window can be more complicated. Wood windows may use screws and be relatively easy to replace, however removing the glass from vinyl or fiberglass units is less obvious. In many cases, this involves a “snap in” type window stop located either on the inside or the outside of the window, separate from the main portion of the frame.

Generally, this type of repair is best left to professionals, since removing the stops can be difficult and can result in more broken glass.

Sometimes the window stop will be adhered to the frame with two-sided glazing tape or adhesive caulking.

The replacement glass not only needs to be the proper length and width, but also the proper thickness and space between the panes. If a glass shop replaces the glass, they will provide a guarantee, which in itself is worth piece of mind.

Alaska HomeWise articles promote home awareness for the Cold Climate Housing Research Center (CCHRC). If you have a question, e-mail us at akhomewise@cchrc.org.You can also call the CCHRC at (907) 457-3454.

Your ventilation system is key to indoor quality

ASK A BUILDER

By CCHRC Staff

The “Ask a Builder” series is dedicated to answering some of the many questions Fairbanks residents have about building, energy and the many other parts of home life.

Q: I had an energy rating performed on my home, and it said my house does not have enough ventilation air for acceptable indoor air quality. What does that mean and what are my options?

As part of the energy rating, the rater conducts a blower door test to depressurize the house. This test uses a large, calibrated fan to determine how much air is leaking in and out of the house. If this leakage rate falls below a certain range, the energy report will contain a cautionary statement warning the homeowner that the home is too “tight.” This may result in poor indoor air quality unless the building has mechanical ventilation. All homes must be able supply a specific number of air exchanges per hour in order to meet state and national standards for air quality. The required volume of fresh air is determined using a calculation that factors in house size and number of occupants. A tight home can suffer from a variety of ailments, such as moisture build-up and mold growth. Not all air quality issues are this obvious, however. For example, if combustion appliances such as propane ovens aren’t operating properly, or if car exhaust is drawn into the house from an attached garage, then low levels of carbon monoxide can linger in the living quarters for extended periods. These levels are often too low to register on a carbon monoxide detector, but over time can have a negative effect on occupant health. Air quality issues can also arise from off-gassing of building products such as new carpets and solvent-based finishes.

Animal dander, dust mites and chemicals released by household cleaners can also contribute to poor air quality.

Today, most building codes require some form of mechanical ventilation.

This can range from an appropriately-sized exhaust fan operating in conjunction with fresh air inlets installed in the living spaces to a Heat Recovery Ventilation System (HRV).

Regardless of which type of system is used, it must be sized and installed to meet the needs of the home it will be serving.

A healthy, efficient house must perform a balancing act between cost and indoor air quality. This means that the ventilation system has to supply enough fresh air to meet occupant needs, while at the same time minimizing the energy penalties associated with over ventilating.

Q: Who determines building code and how is it changed?

At this point, the most predominant residential code used in the United States is produced by the International Code Council (ICC), although some municipalities opt to use codes from other sources.

The ICC produces the International Residential Code (IRC) which is updated every three years. The city of Fairbanks building officials uses the 2006 IRC book, but will soon be adopting 2009 codes.

Because this is a national code, it does not perfectly meet the needs of every individual region, so it is up to the local jurisdiction to establish appropriate exceptions. For each code cycle, our local Building Code Review and Appeals Commission makes amendments to the IRC in order to adapt it to Fairbanks. This commission is comprised of contractors, engineers, architects, and local code officials. As an example, the Commission has increased the snow load requirements to better reflect conditions in Fairbanks. All the amendments are available at the building department and online on the city of Fairbanks website at www.ci.fairbanks.ak.us/index.php. Outside the city of Fairbanks, no code is enforced unless the lending agency requires it. However, building codes exists to insure that a minimum standard of occupant health and safety is met. It is worth noting that if a house is not built to meet local codes it can be difficult to sell.

Alaska HomeWise articles promote home awareness for the Cold Climate Housing Research Center (CCHRC). If you have a question, e-mail us at akhomewise@cchrc.org.You can also call the CCHRC at (907) 457-3454.

Make home repairs now while weather is good

ASK A BUILDER

By CCHRC Staff

The “Ask a Builder” series is dedicated to answering some of the many questions Fairbanks residents have about building, energy and the many other parts of home life.

Q: I want to inspect my home this summer, just in case there are any repairs I should make.

What kind of things do I want to look at?

The parts of your home that have moving parts or are exposed to hot or cold are most likely to need maintenance.

To begin, inspect your windows to make sure they open and close properly and seal well. Look at door and window hinges and related gasket seals and check for any condensation or breakage between your window panes. Inspect your chimney, which will prevent potential stack fires and will also improve efficiency. Especially inspect where your chimney goes through your attic and roof.

Have your boiler or furnace inspected for proper functioning and change your fuel filter if you use oil heat. Replace any air filters, including those in your heat recovery ventilator.

Check to see if your foundation exhibits any signs of cracking or movement, which is a sign of shifting soil or settling. Look at the exterior walls and roof of your home for any deteriorating siding or roofing. Fading, peeling paint or corroding roof tiles are an indication you may need to replace roofing, or treat or paint your home.

Inspect your attic and crawlspace for problems, especially moisture. Have your septic tank pumped. Add salt to your water softener and change water filters. Replace batteries in your smoke alarms and CO2 sensors and make sure both are working properly.

Remember it is easier to make repairs such as these in the summer than in the winter. Putting off home maintenance is tempting to do on a bright sunny day, but you may pay for it later with time, money and convenience.

Can I break my wind turbine or overload the system?

The Fairbanks area does not often get extremely strong winds, so overburdening a wind turbine system is unlikely.

Wherever you live, you want to be sure your turbine is properly sized. Do not settle for an inexpensive turbine and hope for the best — purchase a durable model rated for those conditions.

When shopping for your system, note that some are designed to cope with irregular conditions.

If the turbine is connected to the power grid it will put power onto the grid and not overload. Some systems will even shut down to avoid problems from extreme high winds. No matter the situation, consult with a professional before you begin any wind project, make sure to choose the right turbine for your area and perform regular maintenance as specified by the manufacturer.

Alaska HomeWise articles promote home awareness for the Cold Climate Housing Research Center (CCHRC). If you have a question, e-mail us at akhomewise@cchrc.org.You can also call the CCHRC at (907) 457-3454.

Barnette Magnet School students win national award for green school design

From The Fairbanks Daily News-Miner, Monday, May 17, 2010:

The school of the future is a net-zero-energy building with three triangular wings, a solar array, green roof, spherical dome and astronomy aqua-tower, all straddling a river. And it resides in Fairbanks.

SubZero Middle School is a futuristic model designed by 10 students from Barnette Magnet Middle School. On April 30, the group won first place and a $2,000 prize for Barnette in the nationwide School of the Future competition in Washington, D.C. The class spent a week in D.C. in late April, competing against seven other finalists and presenting its project before 20 judges.

“I’m most proud of it because it’s not some far-fetched idea. It’s very realistic,” said Eliza Lawler, who took a feeder guppy to Washington to stock the mockup of the Chena River.

“You get a bunch of 12- and 13-year-olds together, and it’s amazing. It’s unbridled imagination,” said local architect Steve Keller, who helped students with the project and accompanied them to D.C. “They’re thinking like adults, but they don’t have the constraints that full-grown adults have.”

Click here to read the full story.

Wash, rinse, dethaw … repeat?

Ask A Builder

By CCHRC Staff

The “Ask a Builder” series is dedicated to answering some of the many questions Fairbanks residents have about building, energy and the many other parts of home life.

Q: I am going to dig up my foundation this summer so I can put on outside foam insulation.

Do I need to clean off my foundation in any way?

How far down should I dig? How long will the ground be frozen?

If the foundation has not been waterproofed or the product that is installed needs some touching up, then clean the area thoroughly. In the case of cement block or cast-in-place concrete, cleaning will probably involve hosing off the foundation, letting it dry, waterproofing it, then adding the insulation. For waterproofing, apply a peel-and-stick membrane or a waterproof foundation coating. Be sure to follow the application instructions carefully. These membranes work well for both new construction and retrofits, but the concrete must be clean first. If your foundation already has good waterproofing, then dig away the dirt, brush off the foundation and place the foam tight against the wall. In terms of how far down you should dig, remember that heat always goes to cold. Where you have a temperature difference inside to outside, you are going to have heat loss. The bigger the temperature difference, the more aggressively the heat will try to escape. The frostline in Fairbanks goes down roughly 4 feet on average.

Some winters, that frostline goes much deeper. Below the frostline, there is an average soil temperature of 32 to 40 degrees. A good practice is to apply rigid foam insulation that is approved for direct burial, all the way down to the footings.

Fairbanks building code requires three inches of thickness for foam below grade (below the soil).

Good resources for finding out when the ground has thawed would be the local excavation and septic companies. They work in locations throughout the area and may be able to help you predict the thawing time for your location. June is usually a good month in which to begin excavation, though if you are on the north side of a hill, in a heavily shaded area, or have wet soils, your ground may behave differently.

Q: Where can I go if I want more information on ground source heat pumps?

There is information on our website (www.cchrc.org) including heat pump resellers in Fairbanks. Also the Department of Energy has a website dedicated to energy efficiency and renewable energy (www.energysavers.

gov.) The site has general information about how heat pumps work and the considerations in installing a system. The Permafrost Technology Foundation website (www.permafrost.org) has several technical reports on the use of ground source heat pumps in permafrostladen soils. As ground source heat pumps grow in popularity, we are seeing more being built in the Fairbanks area. CCHRC is beginning research projects that will look at the effectiveness of ground source heat pumps in our region and should have some preliminary information on our website by next spring.

Alaska HomeWise articles promote home awareness for the Cold Climate Housing Research Center (CCHRC). If you have a question, e-mail us at akhomewise@cchrc.org.You can also call the CCHRC at (907) 457-3454.

The value of UASK

Ask a Builder

By CCHRC Staff A The “Ask a Builder” series is dedicated to answering some of the many questions Fairbanks residents have about building, energy and the many other parts of home life.

Q: I’m looking at buying new windows. What do you recommend?

In the case of windows, look for a low Uvalue. The Uvalue is a measure of how well a window conducts heat. If you are going to build a home that meets the Alaska Housing Finance Corporation 5star Plus standard then, for Fairbanks, the recommended maximum Uvalue is 0.25, which will probably be a triple pane window . If the window doesn’t have an NFRC label (National Fenestration Rating Council) make sure the Uvalue rating applies to the entire window, not just the glass.

When it comes to shopping for windows, both vinyl and fiberglass will do fine if they are properly designed for our climate.

Metal frames should be avoided, as they are great conductors and will transfer heat outside your home quickly and are at higher risk of attracting condensation.

If you are looking at local companies, see if they will share client information. Sometimes the best feedback comes from people that have already had the windows in place for a year or two. Good warranties are important as well. Look into a comprehensive longterm warranty that covers hardware and seal failure.

Q: With all the weatherization and tightening going on lately, I’ve been wondering about indoor air quality.

Does my propane stove present a risk?

A lot of people like to cook with propane, but it is important to remember that it is a combustion appliance and, as such, falls into the same category as wood stoves and boilers. A propane stove should have a range hood that is vented directly outside and working properly .

Use the fan when you are cooking. Because a propane stove burns with an open flame, a hood vented to the outdoors is especially important because it removes the harmful byproducts of the combustion process, such as carbon monoxide (CO), from flowing into your living space.

On a typical propane stove, there is an opening at the back that vents the combustion gas from the oven. This opening is located above or below the controls and is intentionally placed in the back so the appliance vents directly up to the range hood vent, rather than into the room. If you are concerned about cold air coming in through the ducting when the fan is not running, an inline backdraft damper can be installed to provide a tight seal.

On a related note, make sure you have a carbon monoxide detector in the home. CO detectors with a digital readout are the best as they can record CO levels in addition to providing an alarm when the level is too high.

Alaska HomeWise articles promote home awareness for the Cold Climate Housing Research Center (CCHRC). If you have a question, email us at akhomewise@cchrc.org.You can also call the CCHRC at (907) 457-3454.