Tag Archives: Retrofit

Building workshops & classes this spring

While it might seem like summer is far away, the building season is right around the corner, and now is a good time to finalize any plans for upcoming home improvements. If you’re interested in reducing your home’s energy use, there are several opportunities this spring to learn about energy efficient building and retrofit techniques.

The building addition at CCHRC, which opened last year, features passive solar design, radiant floors, a pellet boiler and a super-insulated building envelope. There are efficient technologies in the original building as well, including a masonry heater, ground source heat pump, a sewage treatment plant, solar photovoltaic panels and thermal storage. Tours are offered at 2 p.m. on the second Thursday of every month and feature both the original building and the addition, and include plenty of time for questions and discussion, as well. Spring 2014 tours will take place Feb. 13, March 13, April 10 and May 8. In addition, the Builders Resource Library at CCHRC contains information on many aspects of cold climate construction and heating systems. The library is open Monday-Friday, and a catalogue is available online atcatalog.library.uaf.edu (select CCHRC from the Library menu).

Golden Valley Electric Association offers one-on-one instruction through its Home$ense audit program. Through the $40 program, an energy auditor visits your home to discuss ways to reduce your electrical usage and energy costs. To sign up, call the member services department at GVEA at 458-4555 or visit www.gvea.com.

Classes on more advanced topics are offered by the Alaska Craftsman Home Program (ACHP). Advanced Cold Climate Construction will be held Feb. 12 and 13 in Fairbanks, covering the latest energy efficient construction methods on topics such as insulation, vapor retarders, windows and ventilation. The class includes a construction manual and certificate for continuing education credits. Also, ACHP will

offer a one-day class on the Building Energy Efficiency Standard (BEES) on March 19 and May 22. This class covers the BEES requirements for insulation values, air leakage, moisture protection and ventilation. Fees and registration for these classes and more information can be found at www.achpalaska.com.

For those interested in wood heating, UAF is hosting the Firewood Workshop from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Saturday in the Bunnell Building. The workshop covers how-to tips for cutting and drying wood, operating a wood stove and more.

Finally, the annual Interior Alaska Building Association Home Show will take place March 28-30 at the Carlson Center and will feature topics including financing, remodels and new construction. There also will be seminars and demonstrations on a variety of topics related to homebuilding. The home show kicks off the summer building season in Fairbanks and is an excellent way to gather lots of information about energy efficiency.

New standards for the Alaska Home Energy Rebate program

Those building an energy-efficient house in Alaska could qualify for a greater rebate from the state as of July 1. Homes that meet the highest energy standards can be rewarded with a $10,000 rebate, up from $7,500.

The New Home Energy Rebate Programwww.ahfc.us/efficiency/energy-programs/new-home-rebate is managed by the Alaska Housing Finance Corporation and provides incentives to build energy efficient new homes. An infusion of $300 million in state funding took place in 2008 and included money to fund rebate programs specific to both new and existing homes. Since 2008, the rebate programs have received more than $500 million in legislative funding.

 

Energy standards

The energy standards used in the program (called the Building Energy Efficiency Standards, or BEES) cover thermal performance, air leakage, moisture management strategies and ventilation. Typically builders and homeowners verify that they meet these standards by having an energy rating done from plans before construction begins, followed by a series of inspections during construction, and finally another energy rating upon completion, which also includes an air leakage test. Energy ratings and inspections are performed by a state certified energy rater: www.ahfc.us/pros/energy-programs/energy-rater.

As part of the initial energy rating done from plans, the home receives a certain score based on how energy efficient the building is. Using the rating as a guide, people can then make informed decisions in selecting measures which will reduce energy use, including (but not limited to) options such as adding more insulation to different parts of the structure, increasing air tightness, upgrading windows, or installing more efficient heating devices.

Previously, the highest rating possible was “5-star plus,” which came with a $7,500 rebate. Starting next month, there’s a new level called “6-star.” You must achieve a higher score (95 points or higher) but you also qualify for a bigger rebate — $10,000. The 5-star plus rebate continues to be in effect, however the rebate amount will now be $7,000.

The updated BEES standard also affects anyone applying for home financing through AHFC. To qualify for a mortgage, you need to reach at least 5-star (89 points). Before, you only had to meet 4-star plus (83 points).

These standards appear to be having a significant influence on new home performance. A recent analysis by the Cold Climate Housing Research Center found that about 60 percent of new homes built in Alaska between 2005 and 2009 (those that had an energy rating done) met the old BEES standard.

“It appears that BEES has become an industry standard here in Alaska,” said Dustin Madden, policy researcher at CCHRC. “This update means we should be seeing more energy efficient construction in the state, saving people money on fuel for years to come.”

What would a 6-star house look like in Fairbanks?

A 6-star energy rating can be achieved in a wide variety of ways. For example, a 1,900-square-foot home in Fairbanks could reach this bench mark with R-50 walls, an R-54 ceiling, R-20 rigid foam insulation on the exterior of a below grade floor, U-0.22 windows, a Heat Recovery Ventilator (HRV) and an 86 percent AFUE oil-fired boiler with an indirect fired hot water tank.

Every home will have issues specific to that structure which will affect the rating, including variables such as the exterior surface area to volume ratio, heating system type and efficiency, foundation type, and square footage of windows.

Consequently, getting on board with the rating process while still in the planning stages allows for maximum flexibility in making changes and adjustments to meet the 6-star (or 5-star plus) standard.

Energy rebate program is still alive in Alaska

Q: I signed up for the home rebate program months ago and haven’t heard from anyone since. Has the program ended or are the energy raters just really busy?

When you signed up for the rebate program, you put your name on a waitlist.

Your name will be given to an energy rater when funding becomes available for you to participate in the program.

Then your assigned energy rater will call you to set up an appointment for your energy rating.

So the rebate program hasn’t ended, but all the funding has been set aside for other program participants. Funding becomes available for new participants when others let their deadline pass without collecting their rebate. You can check your status on the waitlist by visiting www.akrebate.com or by calling 1-877-257-3228.

Once there is funding available for your rebate, an energy rater will call you to set up an appointment. When the rater performs your rating, be sure to keep your receipt. You will need to send it, along with a copy of the rating, proof that you own your house and Alaska Housing Finance Corporation’s (AHFC) As-Is Energy Rating Reimbursement form to AHFC.

It is important to mail these documents as soon as possible to ensure that funding is set aside for your rebate.

Q: I have a lot of moisture and ice building up on my windows, especially when it is really cold. Are my windows bad?

Not necessarily. Single-pane windows are prone to icing up if with even the smallest amount of humidity inside a home.

These windows are not recommended for this climate. Double and triple pane windows with icing problems can be a sign of a broken pane or broken window seal.

Also, the home may not be getting adequate ventilation, which causes condensation on windows when indoor moisture levels increase.

This column has focused on winter indoor air quality several times over the past year. To read our past advice on this topic, visit our website at www.cchrc.org.

Alaska HomeWise articles promote awareness of home-related issues. If you have a question, e-mail the Cold Climate Housing Research Center at akhomewise@cchrc.org.You can also call the CCHRC at (907) 457-3454

Deadline for Federal Tax Credit on Energy Efficiency Upgrades Nears

There is only one month left to purchase and install items that qualify for the Federal Tax Credits for Consumer Energy Efficiency.

As a reminder, these items need to be both purchased and installed by December 31, 2010.

From energystar.gov:

To qualify for the tax credit, the product needs to be “placed in service” by December 31, 2010. The IRS defines “placed in service” as when the property is ready and available for use. It’s not when you purchase product, but the day installation is complete, and you are able to use your new product.

These tax credits will be claimed on your 2010 taxes (which you must file by April 15, 2011).

For more information, visit http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=tax_credits.tx_index.

Fairbanks churches try energy audits to save money

From The Fairbanks Daily News-Miner, Monday, November 15, 2010:

It’s a sign of the times in religious circles — caulking and sealing parties.

This new congregational activity will soon begin at Christ Lutheran Church and University Community Presbyterian Church.

Both houses of worship underwent sanctuary energy audits this past week, and as soon as they receive itemized reports, they will begin performing the simpler energy-saving tasks to reduce their energy consumption. Some larger projects might have to be contracted out.

“We found we were leaking like a sieve,” said the Rev. Susan Granata, pastor at Christ Lutheran.

Each church was motivated to take a closer look at its aging buildings for both stewardship and financial reasons.

“It was kind of a hard decision to have this audit. It was not inexpensive,” Granata said.

The financial drain of fuel and electricity costs became painfully apparent a couple years ago, when oil prices skyrocketed.

Anchorage opts out of home weatherization program

From The Associated Press, Thursday, November 4, 2010:

The city of Anchorage is getting out of the home weatherization business.

The work can be done more efficiently by others, Mayor Dan Sullivan said Wednesday.

The city is withdrawing from the program at the end of March when its contract expires with the Alaska Housing Finance Corp.

Nonprofit organizations doing the work in other parts of Alaska will likely pick up the work in the city, AHFC Executive Director told the Anchorage Daily News. The Alaska Community Development Corp. and the Rural Alaska Community Action Program could gear up to handle Anchorage too.

In 2008 the Legislature approved $200 million for weatherization and $160 million for energy rebates.

The state is paying to caulk, replace furnaces and boilers, and otherwise improve the energy efficiency of 500 households in Anchorage and 7,000 more in the rest of Alaska this year, Fauske said.

The municipality has been administering the weatherization services in Anchorage since 2007 and employs 17 people in the program who are paid through a state grant.

Continue reading: Anchorage opts out of home weatherization program

Don’t forget the proper foundation insulation

ASK A BUILDER
By CCHRC Staff

The “Ask a Builder” series is dedicated to answering some of the many questions Fairbanks residents have about building, energy and the many other parts of home life.

Q: How do I insulate my foundation and how much is enough?

Insulating a foundation is an important step in both retaining heat during the winter and reducing heating costs. Concrete or concrete block — the material used to build most Alaska home foundations — is very conductive. If not insulated, it will transfer heat from a crawlspace or basement directly to the surrounding soils or outside air. Many Fairbanks homes, especially older homes, do not have insulated foundations. Putting insulation on the outside of the foundation will slow that heat transfer and ultimately save energy and money.

The most commonly used insulation for new homes and when retrofitting older homes is rigid foam board that is rated for below-grade application. If an insulation is rated for below grade, that means it is less susceptible to water absorption and is not damaged as easily.

Another option is to hire a professional to apply spray foam to the foundation, which has similar insulative and water resistant capabilities.

Building code requires that new homes have R-15 of insulation installed on a foundation. That amount is equivalent to about 3 inches of rigid foam board. Insulation should be applied to the outside of the foundation all the way down to the footer.

Spray or foam board can also be applied to the interior foundation or crawlspace walls. This method saves effort because the entire perimeter of the home does not need to be dug out; the down side is that this method consumes interior living space.

Be sure that any interior insulation is either fire rated or is covered with a fire rated surface.

Q: I have wastewater pipes that have recently become frozen. How should I thaw them out?

Frozen wastewater can cause backups that can lead to a messy situation.

Heat tape will slowly thaw frozen pipes, but could require months of thawing.

There are ground-thawing machines that can be rented, but they are often difficult to use. The safest option would be to hire a professional to thaw the areas that need work.

Alaska HomeWise articles promote home awareness for the Cold Climate Housing Research Center (CCHRC). If you have a question, e-mail us at akhomewise@cchrc.org.You can also call the CCHRC at (907) 457-3454.

Better ways to insulate around doors, windows

ASK A BUILDER

By CCHRC Staff

The “Ask a Builder” series is dedicated to answering some of the many questions Fairbanks residents have about building, energy and the many other parts of home life.

Q: A lot of older homes use pink or yellow fiberglass insulation around doors or windows. If I’m going to reseal any of them, is there a better way to do it?

Fiberglass is a great insulator but still allows air to flow in and out. A can of minimal expanding spray foam will more effectively air seal your doors and windows.

Open the trim around the windows then push the fiberglass in slightly. Make sure the spray foam fills all the cracks for a tight seal. The goal is to make the area around doors and windows as airtight as possible.

Even low expanding foam will swell significantly. Painter’s masking tape can be used to protect finished surfaces from spillage and can be removed once the foam cures. As an alternative, a compressible foam backer rod and silicone caulking can also provide a good long-term seal in difficult spots — especially when if you are working in temperatures too cold to apply foam. Also moisture can affect the foam and it should not be applied to wet surfaces.

Q: When it comes to heat and energy expenses, why are walls such a big deal?

In looking at a home, people often think their roof is where they lose the most heat.

The walls, however, might be a bigger issue.

On a home, walls compose the greatest surface area exposed to the outside. This is important because the laws of thermodynamics teach us that heat will always move to cold whether it moves up, down or sideways. With an exterior wall, one side is always exposed to the cold so heat will naturally always try to move inside to outside through the wall. We tend to assume heat always rises, so our roof must be responsible for the greatest heat loss. What actually happens is that air rises when it is warmed and it becomes a vehicle for the transfer of heat. This does not mean there is any reduction in the amount of heat moving through walls. A home can easily have many times more heat loss through walls than through the roof.

There are many ways to reduce heat loss through walls. The simplest is to carefully caulk and air-seal any places where air can move from the interior or exterior, particularly around windows and doors. Re-insulating walls and adding additional insulation inside or outside can be done if proper techniques are incorporated.

Be sure to consult with or hire a professional before attempting this kind of weatherization.

Remember, a house is a system and what is done to one part of a house may affect overall performance of the home both positively and negatively.

Alaska HomeWise articles promote home awareness for the Cold Climate Housing Research Center (CCHRC). If you have a question, e-mail us at akhomewise@cchrc.org.You can also call the CCHRC at (907) 457-3454.

DOE Answers Your Weatherization Questions

From US DOE, Monday, August 20, 2010:

Last week as part of Vice President Biden’s announcement of 200,000 homes weatherized under the Recovery act, we asked you to send us your questions and comments about the weatherization process. Today, we’re following up with answers experts from the Department’s Weatherization and Intergovernmental Program:

1) From edmooney via Twitter: @Energy Besides caulking, what are the best values in weatherization for the Northeast region. #weatherization

Nationwide, the energy-efficient retrofits that consistently provide the best return on investment involve sealing gaps in the building envelope which allows conditioned air – either heated or cooled – to escape the interior of the home. States in the Northeast region, which on average have an exceptionally high number of heating degree days each season, are particularly susceptible to energy loss through poor air sealing of the building envelope.

These gaps in the building envelope can include joints between materials, gaps around doors and windows, and penetrations for piping, wiring, and ducts. A blower door test can be used identify these gaps and measure the aggregate degree of air infiltration into your home. Retrofit measures such as caulking, weather stripping, gaskets, and duct sealing can be used to seal these gaps and improve the energy efficiency of your home.

Continue reading: Response to Weatherization Questions

Energy Funds Went Unspent, U.S. Auditor Says

From The New York Times, Friday, August 13, 2010:

The recession is lingering, and so is the unspent stimulus money that was meant to help end it.

The latest example is the $3.2 billion that Congress voted in February 2009 as part of an economic stimulus package to simultaneously provide jobs and improve energy efficiency through block grants to states and cities.

Only about 8.4 percent of the money had been spent by the beginning of this month, according to an audit released on Friday by the inspector general of the Energy Department, and it has produced or saved only about 2,300 jobs as of the second quarter of this year.

The program was to provide money for the purchase of better lighting or heating and cooling equipment for buildings like city halls and schools. But it is off to the same slow start as a bigger program that was initiated at the same time to weatherize the homes of low-income people around the country. An audit of that program in February, also by the  inspector general, found that only $368.2 million of $4.73 billion, or less than 8 percent, had been spent.

Continue reading: Energy Funds Went Unspent, U.S. Auditor Says